Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Train Depots, Thumbs, and Bus Stations.... Anticipation is Half The Fun

As you might guess, I enjoy traveling.  The age old cliche ('it's the journey, not the destination') is not only true, it can be hiked up a notch-- it is the imminent departure!  I love travel hubs, crossroads, port towns, ferry crossings, airstrips, a full tank of gas in a rental car, or even a bustling taxi stand.

Here in East Africa, bus stations are especially colorful and fragrant.  People are hustling everything from snacks and sunglasses to live chickens.  This ensures that travelers can reach their destinations either nourished, or with the expected offerings for their hosts.  Buses don't depart until they fill (maybe an hour or so after their scheduled departure time), and many of the less reputable ones look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book once they are topped with all the cargo they'll transport in addition to human passengers.  The bustle, the colors, the yelling, the hurry up and wait-- all this adds to the excitement of an upcoming trip.

The Kampala bus station (which is really just a giant area where buses are parked) in Uganda.

The old train station here in Nairobi hasn't changed much since it was first built, in 1899!  Only 3 trains a week depart from it, meaning it is mostly a relict for tourists and people with lots of time to kill, but I so love traveling by train I decided to book a compartment when GP came for New Year's a couple months ago.  Requirements for train travel in Kenya: strong stomach (the food was terrible, and I am *not* picky) and a dear friend who loves to play cards.
 
Me and GP about to get on the Crazy Train in Nairobi headed for the coast.  Not 17 hours, but 22 hours later (plus 2 engine break downs and, eventually, a disembarkment to catch a matatu [mini bus] for the last leg) we reached Mombasa, our destination.  For reference, the bus ride would have taken about 7 hours, total.

By far, bodabodas (motorcycles) are my favorite way to get from place to place here (and everywhere else too).  They are cheap, they can squeeze perilously through traffic jams, they can off road, they are often driven by guys with hilarious hats (occasionally helmets, but not as much) and big puffy jackets to protect against the cold, even when it it about 80 degrees out.
Before he knew I was taking a picture.  And then after.

Or, you can go with whatever mode of transport comes along first!  In my experience, when hitchhiking, it always helps to 1) ask nicely, 2) clearly state where you want to go, and 3) wear a red dress!  I have accumulated quite the karma debt over the years because of kind hitchhiker-picker-uppers, and it one that I fully intend to repay.
My signature hand-written signs have worked all over Europe, the US, and East Africa (this one says "Nairobi please!"  One has to make sure the font is big and clear enough to be visible to fast-moving cars and that one is standing in a spot where it's easy to stop so they can pick you up.   

Speaking of hitchhiking, I am giving a science talk to the public (kind of like the Science Pubs and Nerd Nite talks I have given in Portland over the last few years, which I enjoy so much).  If you are in Nairobi, come if you can!

1 comment:

  1. Ah but you didn't need the sign this time as the buses to Nairobi were so frequent…..when I eventually decided to get on it...

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